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Discover Useful Secrets About Boxer Dog Training

July 15th, 2009

One of the few things that dog owners or prospective dog owners think about is whether or not they will need to train their dog. Although training a dog is not absolutely essential unless your dog has a particular problem, a small amount of training to remove bad habits and set boundaries for your dog should be considered. In addition to this, a well trained dog will feel much more secure in your home when it knows its boundaries. Even in the wild, a dog will have some sort of enforced boundaries of behavior by the pack structure and hierarchy that exists. At the end of the day, your dog is part of your ‘pack’.

A very important point to note about dog training is that any form of training should be approached from the perspective of ‘positive reinforcement’. This simply means that you should reward your dog with praise, a treat or even better, both for any positive behavior that she exhibits. Success will come quickly to anybody who praises a dog for good behavior. The same cannot be said for somebody who punishes a dog for NOT exhibiting good behavior.

For example - If you ask your dog to sit and she does, you give her a treat. In the dogs mind sitting when told equals treat. Simple.

Now what if you tell the dog to sit and she doesn’t, and then you punish her? In the dogs mind you have just dished out a random punishment for nothing. This will only serve to confuse your dog and lead her to mistrust you.

Positive reinforcement is the key.

One of the most common mistakes that dog owners make is to inadvertently train their dog……. into bad habits. Typical examples include barking, face licking, jumping up. Let’s look at each of these.

Barking - Most dogs’ bark, that’s a fact. It’s WHEN a dog barks that determines whether it’s normal behavior or a bad habit. If your dog only barks when somebody comes to the door - fine. This is normal territorial behavior. Your dog is warning you - as a member of its pack - that there’s potential danger at the door.

If your dog spends the best part of its waking life barking at just about anything including you, then it’s formed into a bad habit - but one that is easy to cure.

The first mistake that people make is to shout “Quiet” or “Shut up” at their barking dog. The main reason why this will not work is simple. Your dog barks, then you ‘bark’. From your perspective you are shouting at your dog to shut up. From your dogs’ perspective, you are barking along and enjoying the noise.

A more effective method is to wait for a pause in your dogs barking then heap lots of praise and a treat upon your dog. As soon as the barking starts again, ignore your dog, walk off - anything but DO NOT pay your dog any attention. Then, when the barking stops its treat time again. It won’t be long before your dog puts two and two together.

Face Licking - Face licking is an overthrow from your dog’s puppy days. Face licking is a way for a puppy to get its mother to regurgitate food for them. You will often see this in the wild. Also wild dogs will lick the face of a higher member of the pack to express and accept their submissive status in the pack. Unfortunately, because you and your family members are higher in the pack, you get the licks!

At first sight face licking is not a problem but should still be avoided due to health concerns. Never let a dog lick a baby or toddlers face. This is likely to expose the infant to germs that its immune system may not be able to handle. Similarly if your dog has worms or has been investigating other dogs’ faeces or even grooming itself, the last thing you want is for your dog to come and lick your face. Try and discourage this behavior using positive reinforcement.

When your dog approaches your face firmly - but not shouting - say “No!” If the dog doesn’t back off push her away from your face. When the dog first responds to the “No” phrase, it’s time for a treat. Keep this up consistently, and the dog will realize face licking is unacceptable.

Jumping Up - Jumping up may not seem such a bad habit, but if there are young children about it can be quite dangerous. Your dog will not know that jumping on you is o.k. but jumping on the children isn’t. This will just confuse the dog. Try to discourage this behavior by telling the dog “Down!” every time she jumps up. Give her a treat when she first responds and every time after until you just need to use the words.

There are lots of simple ways that you can train your dog. These are just a few. There’s no need to tolerate bad habits in your dog as they can be so easily remedied. Oh, and never pay heed to the phrase “You can’t teach on old dog new tricks”, you can - it’s never too late.

Read more about boxer dog training and puppy obedience training issues by visting http://www.myonlinedogtrainingtips.com/

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Resource About Advantage Flea Control

June 7th, 2009

Flea Control Tips

There are many flea products on the market today that make a lot of claims which can be confusing to the consumer trying to select a flea control product. But before applying any flea insecticide, it is important to consider the complete scope of the flea problem. The most important principle in a total flea control program is that the pet’s environment (indoors and outdoors) as well as the pet and all other pets (dogs, cats, and ferrets) should be treat simultaneously.

Before using any insecticides, the environment must be thoroughly cleaned to remove as many of the adult fleas, eggs, larvae, and pupae as possible. Vacuuming with a beater-bar brush is extremely effective in removing adult fleas and other immature forms. Vacuuming raises the carpet fibers which makes the immature forms of fleas accessible to insecticides, in addition to aerating and drying out the carpet. Even if the vacuum fails to remove the cocoon because of its sticky nature, it will stimulate pre-emerged adults to emerge from the pupae, allowing them to be sucked up by the vacuum or exposing them to the insecticides. Be sure to thoroughly vacuum the “source points” where the pet spends most of it’s time. If that is a chair or bed, be sure to vacuum and treat under the furniture, because the eggs and larvae will actually fall off and the larvae will crawl under the furniture away from the light. Be sure to dispose of the vacuum bag immediately. Don’t use a flea collar in the vacuum bag because it is not approved for use in such a manner and may pose a threat to your health. You may also want to steam clean your carpet at this time which will further help in the mechanical removal of fleas. Be sure your pet’s bedding and blankets or rugs routinely occupied by your pet are washed in hot water. This is something that should be repeated on a weekly basis.

Outdoor cleanup will involve mowing and raking the yard thoroughly, including removal of any organic debris from flower beds and under bushes. This will also increase the exposure of the fleas to the insecticides. Be sure to clean any areas where your pet spends time, such as the garage, basement, pet carrier, and automobile. Non-carpeted floors should be mopped because fleas may develop in cracks and crevices.
The next step in flea control is the application of insec¬ticides to all pets and the indoor and outdoor environment simultaneously. All pets, such as dogs, cats, and ferrets, should be treated at the same time, and free-roaming animals kept out of the environment.

There is no one chemical or chemical combination of insecticides that will fit every flea infestation problem or fulfill the needs and desires of every pet owner. One natural and safer approach in killing and controlling fleas on the pet and in the environment is to use a product with a pyrethrin and an insect growth regulator (IGR). IGRs are synthetic juvenile insect hormones that have ovicidal and larvicidal activity. The pyrethrin will provide the quick kill of the adult flea, while the IGR will prevent eggs and larvae from developing into the pupae. There are currently two IGRs used in flea control products on the market—methoprene and fenoxycarb. These are extremely stable and provide prolonged residual activity of approximately 30 days.
You can also find IGRs in foggers and premise sprays which can be used alone or in combination with other chemicals. Foggers are commonly used by pet owners but several precautions should be considered:
• Foggers should be placed in each room to be treated (because they don’t effectively go around corners).
• Fogger spray does not go under furniture.
• All people and pets, including fish and birds, must be removed before treatment.
• Utensils and all surfaces in which food is prepared must be covered.
• The home must be thoroughly ventilated and chemicals dried before people and pets return.
Areas that cannot be reached by the foggers, such as closets or under furniture, and heavily infested source points should be sprayed by hand with the insecticide. Often, the heavily infested source points in the home or yard need to be retreated in two to three weeks, because the pre-emerged adults inside the pupae or cocoons are protected from the initial application of chemicals. Retreat the areas where you see fleas. In most cases, these will be the source points or hot spots.
Read more on frontline flea control and flea infestation

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Human Best Friend

June 2nd, 2009

Dog is the best animal in the world. It is the most loyal companion a man can have and probably even more trustworthy than your spouse. Dogs are the best choice to make if you want a four-legged animal that is smart, trustworthy and responsive, all at the same time. Many dogs are hyperactive and trouble makers as a puppy, but grow out of it with in a year. If you are dealing with a young pup, you must start training as soon as possible.

The longer you wait to put your dog into training, the more your stress will be with your dog. Some pups can be housetrained at the age of three months, others may take longer. It depends on its IQ. When selecting a puppy that will someday perform the role of backyard guardian in your home, keep these characteristics drilled in mind: Moderate aggressiveness, Alertness/intelligence.

Without any basic obedience training, a dog may well still be a great companion and friend for you, but how do you know that your dog is safe, and consistent in all situations? You don’t know.
The time you get your dog is the time you start working with your dog. Let take a brief look at some of the basics training for your dog. It is imperative that all dogs should learn their name before they learn anything else. One of the first things to consider is that you will need to be sure to reward your dog for performing an accurate task, and you will have to control them in some way for being a bad dog. When disciplining the dog keep in mind that you are aware about it and do not hurt your pet. Then again, the dog should enjoy the training.

Dogs don’t speak human language; therefore communicate with your dog using hand signals, body language, and your voice. This unique method of communication will build up the bond between you and your dog, enhancing a permanent and loving relationship. Training social skills is a continuous and long term process. Most dogs succeed on the certainty of routine. Take the time to command the dog to sit before you open a door or introduce the dog to a new person, or set its food down in front of it. Every well-mannered dog should know at least five basic commands: heel, sit, down, stay and come. It is no good to teach your dog a command that you are never going to use such as bomb or drugs searching, or swimming. It is a true fact, that a well-trained dog is a happier dog and a well-trained dog enjoys much more affection and positive attention. Until then, have fun with your dog.

(bedbathandbeyond) (bed bath and beyond)

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